One of the odd parallels between African-American experience and trans experience is the concept of “good hair.” So, without trying to appropriate the experience of African-Americans and “good hair,” let me talk about what good hair is to many trans women.
And too, let me add that the concept of good trans hair is mostly a concept of middle-aged, caucasian transsexual women. I haven’t heard this concept discussed in any other subset of trans people — I’ve not heard “good hair” being discussed by Hispanic-Americans, African-Americans, or Asian-American trans women, for example, with the one exception of my Latina friend (my best friend!) Vicki Estrada.
So, what is “bad hair” to these trans women in question? It’s male pattern baldness in any form; it’s a high forehead hairline; it’s thin strands of hair that don’t look like full-bodied hair; it’s short hair one has early in transition left over from presenting as male. “Good hair” for the trans women in question is hair that would look natural on their heads, and appropriate woman of their visible age.
The answer to bad hair often involves weaves, extensions, and/or wigs/wiglets. Sometimes “fixing” one’s “bad hair” even involves surgery. For example, I personally know two friends who’ve had surgery to fix their high hairlines by having hair line surgically pulled down — forehead skin removed in the process — and two other trans friends who have had their hair moved densely haired regions of their heads to the bald/balding spot on the backs of their heads.
And, I believe it matters. Literally, trans women are judged by their hair, and civil rights are actually involved with the perception of trans hair. Quoting a recent example by Lindsey Douthit, in a piece for the Concerned Women For America (emphasis added):
The ENDA hearing should serve as a wake-up call to Christians that they must continue to fight for religious liberty. Legislation such as ENDA serves to normalize, and even glorify, in the guise of “progressive popular culture,” lifestyles that Biblical doctrine clearly teaches are wrong. Legislation like ENDA makes people think they can never be free from their sexual and other sins when in fact, Jesus Christ can save every person from all his sins, even homosexuality.Don’t be fooled — the radical implications of ENDA are as noticeable as the glossy wigs and deep voices of the hurting and desperate transgendered female activists at the hearing who so desperately need the life-changing Gospel message offering them freedom from sin.
I have been told I have “good hair” by transgender and cisgender people alike. Although my hair color is not longer my natural color (which is now pretty gray under the coloring),
my hair is dyed pretty closely to the dark blond it was in my early twenties. That said, my hair is pretty thick, and the curls are natural. I don’t have to wear hats at all, but I like berets and beanies, so I wear berets and beanies.
Of course, I spend more money, as well as spend more time, on my hair now. For cash spent, coloring and cutting my hair once every eight weeks costs far more than getting my hair cut in that military style every two weeks back when I was in the Navy. In other words, four or five military style haircuts cost less than one cut and color.
And, when my hair was military length short hair, I went from just washing my hair every day — alternately with a coal tar activated shampoo (to control my seborrhea) and a standard shampoo — to washing my hair with two shampoos every other day — one hard-water shampoo to strip my hair of various hair products, and a second, prescription shampoo (again, issue is controlling my seborrhea). And now too, I’ve added the use of a conditioner and a separate detangler, as well as using a glaze for the top of my hair, and a serum for the sides and back of my hair — both of those to control the curly hair frizziness I didn’t experience when my hair was military length short.
So, by dying my hair and using multiple products — by expending money and time — I’m judged to have “good hair.” That is, I’m judged to have “good trans hair.”
Sometimes, understanding between people who belong to minority groups come from the understanding of parallels and commonalities. My point in this piece is to show that my trans community’s and my personal experiences with hair aren’t the same as African-American women have with their hair, but there are a lot of parallels and commonalities to the experience of our respective communities defining exactly what “good hair” is within our respective communities. The concept of “good hair” effects African-American women and trans women as individuals, and how it effects the separate (but overlapping), respective communities. In other words, the experiences of the two communities regarding hair aren’t the same at all, but there are analogies to be made between the two communities’ experiences with hair.
As John F. Kennedy was quoted as saying:
So, let us not be blind to our differences – but let us also direct attention to our common interests and to the means by which those differences can be resolved.
If a discussion of “good hair” is a something I can use as a tool to build bridges to others in other communities, where those who work on civil rights concerns of individual communities could see the issues as being about broader and overlapping communities, then hair is a means I’m going to use to start discussion about our common civil rights interests.
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Related:
* Hair And Black Self-Loathing
* Black women and Their Hair – Back in the Day
* Chris Rock takes on black hair pathology in the documentary ‘Good Hair’
* Hair pathology continues: Tyra ‘courageously’ shows her own locks on the air
* I’m Revolted: My Oldest Step-Daughter has Straightened Her Wavy Hair
* Pam’s Hair Page



11 Comments





Bad hairI’m old and for rejuvenation I am taking male hormone replacement shots, testosterone and growth hormone. Consequently, I am getting “bad hair” growing in my ears. A little dab of Nair takes care of it. Side effects are hair where I don’t want hair although on my head it is getting thicker and silver. I like the natural color.
An asidePart of me likes seeing statements like this:
not because of the shot at T hair, but because it lays bare that their position is not one of objective policymaking but rather of raw, naked, malicious christianism.
In all honesty, I don’t understand why we – and, here, I mean particularly GLBs – don’t ‘go there’ in actual legal arguments. I’m guessing thats what the goal is in the California SSM case where they’re going after the pro-Prop 8 organizers’ internal memos, but I really think we’ve missed numerous opportunities to make the legal case for discrimination based on religion.
I think I’m going to make a load of transwomen (and perhaps a few ciswomen) jealous.I inherited my maternal grandfather’s hair – naturally thick, dark brown, slightly curly, no receding hairline, and it’s just recently begun to turn silver (well, I’ve found three silver hairs so far – I think that counts as “begun”). My mother, aunt and maternal grandparents all have/had beautiful, thick silver hair. I stopped cutting it after my best friend died 5 years ago, and it reaches about a third the way down my back. I think it’s magnificent – a great big beautiful mane; if it weren’t for my ongoing battle with split-ends, Lawrence Llewellyn-Bowen would be green with jealousy.
The thickness and curls make it look quite feminine – enough that I’ve been mistaken for female from behind before. That’s one of the things I like about it – it’s a way of expressing my female side. A deaf gay friend got a shock when he first met met – he thought he was about to be introduced to this tall femme lesbian, but when she turned round she had a full beard! In British Sign Language (BSL) people usually have nick-names for each other – a short sign that others can use as a short-hand alternative to finger-spelling their name, especially if their name is long. My deaf gay friend christened me then and there; my BSL name is done by holding the fingertips of right hand to the crown, then sweeping the hand down the side of the head and chest, with a flick at the end; it symbolises my long, feminine hair.
Uncomfortable with this terminologyWhile certainly hair is a major issue for some transwomen, I’m really made uncomfortable with the “good hair” terminology. It’s not a phrasing I think I’ve ever heard and it seems a bit appropriative to me.
huh?“a bit appropriative”? Did you make that word up? Are you serious?
Re: Uncomfortable with this terminologyKathy, you’re very correct in that the words we use can often shape the way we think about things.
But sometimes we need vocabulary that accurately captures our thoughts – and while I hadn’t really thought about it before (and so appreciate Autumn for her skill and willingness to educate the trans allies here at the Blend) – I can easily believe that “good hair” and “bad hair” are probably the best words to use to describe this phenomenon … only because no amount of verbal gymnastics will ever make a transwoman (or any woman) in today’s society feel okay about a big bald spot on the back of her head.
Words can shape our thoughts to some degree, but not completely. Some of our thoughts come pre-packaged … and in those cases, why not be honest about what’s really going on? It’s the best way to deal with the issues that we’re wrestling with.
Yes, no, yesI’m fairly sure she’s serious, I know she didn’t make it up, and yes, that’s what she said.
I have a similar concern, but the same wayI don’t find it overtly approrpiating, and I find the sensitivity in the writing to be overtly expressed.
I’m not comfortable, because I find that it tends to ignore a rather serious fact — some folks simply can’t do anything but wigs.
I also find that it glosses over the social import of hair on women in general and the heightened sense of that import on the part of transwomen.
However, to get to that point, we need to acknowledge this aspect — even those of us who are X tend to have points taken away from us if we don’t have good hair.
I will say that the grammatical construction is somewhat clumsy, lol, but hey — it’s a workable start.
Torn feelingsOf course I wish people would judge me on my actions but there are times I worship at the alter of passing. From leaving a piece of my scalp in Chicago to dropping $12K for hair removal in Dallas.
sigh…
Dena
Good diary, Autumn.For me, one of the freeing things about being a lesbian is I can get away more frequently with not worrying about good hair, clothes, etc. That’s not to say that all lesbians are as careless as I am about their hair and other presentation, but just that society has dismissed us as “mannish” and there are actually fun ways of taking advantage of that if you don’t want to have to live up to the impossible standards. So, I really sympathize with the presentation troubles some transwomen deal with and respect them for working so hard, because I’ve taken the duck and weave path to dodge my own version of those same expectations.
So succinct“I also find that it glosses over the social import of hair on women in general and the heightened sense of that import on the part of transwomen.”
Dyssonance, once again you’ve summed up an entire aspect of the experience in a single sentence.
It was the term,”import” that really caught my eye. Every appearance item by which a transsexual woman is judged is by definition an item by which all hetero-typical, neuro-typical, somato-typical, economic-typical women are judged in order to be deemed “woman enough”. Ironically for the women-born-women crowd, transsexual women are the extreme case to which gender equality is put to the test. In listening to my trans man friends, the same is very much true in the arena of being “man enough”. And we want so badly want to fit in, don’t we? I mean, isn’t that what being a transsexual is about in no small part, the need to be externally identified correctly?
That transsexuals are at the crux of the discussion of equality between men and women is no great surprise. Even the “battle of the sexualities” comes down to the same questions of being man or woman enough. That is the true question behind both trans good hair and black good hair: “Are you one of us, a contributing member of our in-group?”…or, conversely, “Have you drunk the Kool-Aid”?