This piece is currently running on Salon today as I sit in for Glenn Greenwald, but I thought I’d share it here…
Longtime readers of the Blend know that I’ve taken on the subject of the politics of black hair (or to be precise, kinky hair) several times, commenting on the travails of black women who are culturally addicted to “creamy crack” — the horrid, toxic relaxers used to chemically straighten hair. It’s all in order to avoid any natural naps showing at the root, and the billion-dollar industry that caters to this beauty choice based on loathing the natural texture of one’s hair that has roots back to the days of slavery and the definition of what is “good hair.”
Lots of people were interested in these posts, others pooh-poohed the notion that the politics of hair had any significance in "post-racial America" or reflected any socio-pathologies that needed to be addressed. In the black community, it's almost taboo to discuss the issue, and, quite frankly, I am grateful that the brilliant Chris Rock has written and stars in the documentary "Good Hair" directed by Jeff Stilson (co-writers are Jeff Stilson, Lance Crouther and Chuck Sklar). If there's any way to break down the walls of silence to discuss this topic with candor, Rock can do it.
An exposé of comic proportions that only Chris Rock could pull off, GOOD HAIR visits beauty salons and hairstyling battles, scientific laboratories and Indian temples to explore the way hairstyles impact the activities, pocketbooks, sexual relationships, and self-esteem of the black community. Director Jeff Stilson follows Chris Rock on this raucous adventure prompted by Rock's daughter approaching him and asking, "Daddy, how come I don't have good hair?" Haircare professionals, beautyshop and barbershop patrons, as well as celebrities including Ice-T, Nia Long, Paul Mooney, Raven Symoné, Dr. Maya Angelou, Salt n Pepa, Eve and Reverend Al Sharpton all candidly offer their stories and observations to Rock while he struggles with the task of figuring out how to respond to his daughter's question.
What can you say when Essence Magazine featured the Top Ten Celeb Hair Moments a couple of years ago and nine out of the 10 women selected had processed, straightened hair? Can you name many well-known black female celebrities who break the processed hair mold (aside from Whoopi Goldberg?). The images we see on film and TV affirm the misguided notion that there is less beauty to be found in naturally kinky hair. And Essence, btw, is a magazine that actually does frequently contain images of black women in natural hairstyles — the editors obviously didn't have a lot of high-profile black actresses or singers to select from. The lye is a hard habit to break.
“I tell my daughters I love them 70 times a day,” [Rock] says. “I hug them and I kiss them – I'm that kind of dad. To hear my daughter did not like something about herself when I'm telling her she's beautiful every single minute of the day really had me thinking about hair again. “She was only five at the time,” he continues, “and she was already having concerns about her hair – she's already having hair envy. I felt I needed to understand more deeply how these issues are related: African-American women and their hair. And then I remembered the idea for a documentary.”
…“In our world, the issues of beauty and conformity run very deep – and men don?t always understand how truly deep those issues go for women,” says executive producer Nelson George. “It reaches all women: Asian, Hispanic, black, and white.” And for black women, the issue can be incredibly polarizing, affecting other areas of their lives – there's a segment in the film where men discuss not ever having touched their wives' hair. “One thing we didn't really know when we started,” says George, “was how deeply we would get into this whole question of black men and women, and the financial considerations and intimacy issues that evolve with taking care of a woman's hair. That was something we discovered – literally, Chris is amazed on screen to touch a black woman's hair AND REALIZES HOW LOADED THAT MOMENT IS. That's the moment it hit him.
The film really builds on this issue of intimacy and how something like hair can affect how people love each other.” One of the most revealing questions raised in the film is summed up by actress Tracie Thoms, one of Good Hair's interviewees. Thoms has chosen to wear her hair “natural,” but she admits how strong her conviction must be to keep it that way. “There are so many pressures to straighten your hair. To keep my hair the same texture as it grows out of my head is looked at as revolutionary. Why is that?”
My hair story below the fold.Full freedom for me finally came when I decided in the 90s to toss out the relaxer and cut the dry damaged hair off. I wore a short natural for several years. I began the process of growing locs in November 2000, a style I wear today. Free from the burning hot comb sizzling my scalp, curling irons, flat irons or other instruments of hair torture. I talked about this when I was interviewed for a documentary about the politics of hair back in 2005.
The status quo is still straightened hair, even though we see more natural styles in vogue now. Black women are unfortunately still chastised by family and significant others not to 1) cut their hair or 2) let it be kinky. It’s one of those “dirty laundry” matters that people don’t want to discuss openly, but when you have such poisonous, enabled self-loathing, it needs sunlight upon it. Look at this ad. It implies that the woman got the job because her hair was chemically straightened. The self-loathing is so culturally ingrained, so pathological — there is nothing wrong with our hair, but nearly every signal received by the dominant culture is that it needs to be “corrected.”





71 Comments





I saw a “Good Hair” last month and it’s FABULOUSRock not only explores the subject from a number of perspectives (especially amusing is black men complaining that they’re going to start dating white women because you can NEVER touch a black woman’s hair) climaxed y the Hair Show Cimpetition. This sequence makes Cher’s Vegas show look like an airport lounge act.
Especially gratifying is the enormous respect Rock shows towards the many gays who are in charge of black hair wizardry. It’s a very funny film, but not once does Rock stoop for a cheap gag at his subject’s expense.
Back when I had hair (in prehistoric times)it was extremely curly, verging on kinky, and virtually impossible to control. Several kids at my wonderful Catholic high school used to taunt me mercilessly for having “n*gger hair.” (And believe it or not, that was one of the nicer things I had to endure.) I became so self-conscious about it, I went to a salon and had them apply one of those damn straighteners. The damn stuff burned my scalp and I had to have medical treatment. At which point I decided, fuck it, I’m going to be myself, whether these clods like it or not. It was the first of many such decisions I had to make (needless to say), and I’m a better, happier person for having made them.
The conformism in American society–the pervasive attitude that anyone who is in any way different or individual is somehow suspect–is on of the most toxic aspects of the Greatest Country in the World.
The preview looks hillariousThe Indian woman with long hair that Chris tells “to run if Black women come up on her”, had me laughing to the point of tears.
My lover watches court TV shows all through the day as (white noise), at least 10 times a day a Black woman will either claim she has Beyonce hair, or angry some beautician failed to give her Beyonce hair. That seems the universal beauty “ideal” for good hair. from some of the Beyonce blonde hair ads which included dramaticly lightening her skin, I think is really a self-loathing ideal to perpetrate on young Black girls, who are building their self esteem through their teen years.
I don’t know the term for the short tight corkscrews that
D L Hughley wears, or how labor intensive, or what products make that look happen.
http://blacksnob.com/storage/d…
I find that to be a very attractive look, which appears to work with the hair texture rather than fighting it. Maybe this option is likelier on men than women.
Love this post. PERIOD.
Tracy Thoms from RENT as Joanna wears the style I like http://thecia.com.au/reviews/r…
Macy Gray also wears her hair more natural
That’s funny, QScribeMales go through hair issues, too.
When I was growing up, there was one kid that we would merciless tease because it seemed as if everytime he combed his hair, it would kink up again in a matter of minutes.
Now my hair (when I had hair, more on that in a minute!), while kinky, is actually pretty fine relatively speaking (for a black person) that I could comb my hair with my fingers (provided it was cut short enough). I was the male with the “good hair.”
Of course, I got tired of jokes like, “Kevin has enough forehead to fit 5 heads.” So in my late 20′s (with some inspiration from Michael Jordan), I finally decided to shave my own damn head. It’s the way I keep it and the way I like it.
very little hair on Black men works for me too http://www.thesoapdispenser.co…
Shemar Moore…..OMFG!
Yeah, but some black mencan get away with the afro. Hell, I know some cute white boys with the type of hair that QScribe describes that look good and freaky when they sport the Afro. Saw one on the train a couple of days ago, in fact.
can we all agree dreads on white boys is JUST WRONG?
YES! Even on light skinned black men (is that racist?) it just looks wrong!
Yessomeone make them stop!
But…rarely can you get away with one in a professional setting. Women have a little more leeway.
That’s the irony of this. For the most part black men are discouraged from keeping much hair on our heads for the exact same reason that women straighten theirs.
Indeed, my mother and grand parents used to regail us with the horror stories of something called concoline(sp?). Many of the men that used that stuff are now bald.
Of course, then there was that thanfully forgotten period in the 90s when Kid N Play made is fashionable to wear a really tall column on ones head. Thus requiring some people to duck when entering a room.
Define what you mean…by “light skinned” first.
Some of us are not sure where we fall on that continuum.
Shemar Mooreand lighter. “Light, bright, and damn near white” (but not light enough to pass).
Hmm.I have “good trans hair” — now. Funny how some things translate across communities.
Child of the 70sI grew up seeing images of black women with natural hair. (I grew up in a small midwestern town, hence images and not actual black women) All of Pam’s pictures look gorgeous. Straightened hair, especially when it’s long, still makes me think of the Solid Gold dancers.
Hair is an issue for most women. If it’s long, we’re supposed to cut it for Locks of Love. If it’s short, we should grow it to look more feminine. If it’s curly, we should straighten it. If it’s straight, we should curl it. If it’s not blonde, we should bleach it. If it is blonde, we should dye it. If it’s gray, COLOR IT!
But white hair is nowhere nearly as politicized as black hair.
Oh no way!It is just a matter of time before white guys figure out ow to make it work for them. And personally i have no problem with that. Truth be told men of African decent act too much like what we got now is so natural to us when that also took hundreds of years to develop. Cute as we are there where at times I am sure when dreads didn’t work for us either. Life and looks are a process.
Hmmmm…To a large extent that’s true with white men too, especially in corporate enviroments. Now I’ve seen white men get away with long hair (and even afros) in corporate enviroments but usually they have been at that company a loooong time.
Now in academia, that’s a different story.
See…to me Moore, fine as he is, is not light skinned. He’s probably a little darker than me (though living in CA he probably just gets more sun).
*Singing: “SOLID GOLD!”Even for the disco era was that not one of the gayest shows on T.V.?? (And yes I mean that in the most derogatory sense I can without being hurtful) ROFLOL!
One thing Louisiana has exposed me toThe most BIZARRO hair don’ts some of the young Black girls attempt. I never saw these experiments that look like 10 lbs of vaseline was slicked on their heads to achieve something SO TRAGIC looking, when I lived in MN.
I see these on cashiers, and it’s like a car crash you don’t want to look, and can’t look away.
Looking for worst hair pics I came across this article on a blog
http://www.sheenasays.com/?p=1244
For a white guy, I got blessed with excellent hair, and it gets better as it ages with salt and pepper streaks. My eldest brother and mother actually had better hair. My mother would go get her hair cut, and other women would ask to get their hair streaked with grey like hers.
Not to quite the same degree…these days at least, proper business decorum for black men is very nearly bald. Of late, white guys have adopted this style as well, but they do have the option of wearing their hair “longer” (i.e. 1″-2″). I know when my hair gets to be about a centimeter I know its time to get the clippers.
The one exception to this is dreads. I suspect because its seen as a cultural/religious thing. I’ve seen quite a few professional black men with dreads.
All I can think of is that movie “BAPS” with Halle. All that stuff they put themselves through for that DID.
No, he’s not that light skinnedbut I just can’t see him in dreads either.
It’s as wrong aswhite boys that attempt to do cornrows!
I have gotten extremely lax in dealing with my hairI can mow it down with a clipper to a crew cut, let it grow a couple months then mow it off. In High school I had hair to the middle of my back, and since I was small framed, when I’d pull into to fill up my car(back when attendants filled your tank)…yeah I’m that OLD.
They’d say Miss, before they saw me clearer.
Awesome post!I attempted to wear my hair natural. The upkeep in both time and money was ridiculous. You see, I don’t have one texture on my head. I have four: wavy in the front, almost-straight at the sides, an undefined puffiness in the middle and a good blend of the previous three at the nape. Ah, the joys of being mixed! So I could never buy just one product and use that on my entire head. I’ve worn braids before but it destroyed my hair and made my scalp bleed and I don’t like the look of dreads.
So I use a light texturizer that straightens it. But the process is gentle enough so my hair is never dry.
Stop…making fun of Kevin Federline. That boy is about as ghetto as a white man can be
I love this thread1) No vitriol or vicious fights (crossing fingers)
2) Yes, we men can come out of the closet about our hair issues too!
Sexism at workBeing a pasty white Irishman, I can’t say much about the “good hair/bad hair” debate, but on the color issue, I know too much. I have very thick hair that is also prematurely gray, and when I say “prematurely,” I mean it started going gray when I was 14 (my sister was 16 when hers started to go). I HATED it. I am a big guy to start with and have always looked older than my age; the hair only made it much worse (like someone thinking I was in my 40s when I was 23). Sure, I could pretty much buy beer at 15, but that was the only benefit.
I started coloring it when I was 24, and worked with a woman who also had prematurely gray hair. Hers, though, grayed in streaks of pure white in hair that was otherwise pure black. It was, and is, stunning. Also, she had a very young face, so the hair totally worked on her.
Nevertheless, whenever I would go to get my hair colored, the hairdresser would routinely try to dissuade me. When my colleague went to get her hair cut, the hairdresser would always try to get her to color it (she tried it once and it looked horrible).
Total sexism, and the advice was completely contrary to what was best for the customer, asthetically speaking. I look much better with my hair darker, she looks much better letting her white show through.
I have seen a number of black women around Seattle with very short hairI’m sure there is a proper name, but it is kind of like a 70s Afro but 1/4 or 1/2 inch. And these aren’t young trend-setters rebelling against convention, either: these are well dressed, professional women in their middle years who eat at (and presumably work in) the Federal Building in Seattle (I have lunch in the cafe there occasionally, they’ve great salad bar.) Honestly, I think it looks very sharp.
I know that hair is a cultural thing — witness the tremendous animosity in the 60s and 70s against long hair and beards on men and how those are relatively unimportant issues now. With the efforts of Mr. Rock and others, I hope that kind of freedom can come to others as well.
SciFi and Kev, you are killing me with your snaps on people’s hair crimes!White boys and dreads/cornrows = while generally a sign of being “cool” when I was in college, it’s now taken on the connotation of the “wigger.” So that’s a fail.
light skinned blacks and dreads = may not look right because we associate Afrocentric styles with dark skinned folks.
My father’s side of the family always placed a premium on “good hair,” since they tended to have it. For me, though, the epitome of good hair as a child was the curl.
I remember I wanted a Jheri sooo bad (this was at the peak of Ready For the World’s popularity), but my mother refused, but she let my sister get a Cali curl. The copious amounts of activator left in the wake of wherever she laid her head (leaning back in the car, on the couch … you already know the pillows were ruined) made me happy she put her foot down on that one.
This white male has it much easierAs I get older, I have less hair on my head. Nowadays I keep a very short buzz cut but eventually I may go for the Captain Picard look.
Problem solved.
Hey, it was “the white boy”, petey, that started it
And hey, can we discuss black women with closely cropped and even bald heads. I think it’s a absolutely stunning look if the woman can get away with it (My Mom, for example, used to wear this in her younger days.)
Ohio Players LP covers showed me women could rock a baldy and be fierce!If you’ve seen those early records you know what I’m talking about. She even modeled some “role playing” fashions.
Of course, they cleaned up a bit when they moved to a bigger label.
One of my female friends from high school always kept her hair short. If you got the right head for it, bald can be very appealing.
A (white) friend of mine is bemoaning the fact that he’s trapped [(c) Colonel Abrams] with a bad hairstyle since he’s balding but feel white men can’t do the bald head like black men.
Yes they canWhether a man can do the bald style has more to do with the shape of the head then the color of one’s skin. There’s at least one white bald guy at another gay blog that wears it quite well.
But I do think that the stigma of baldness is much more palpable in white men than black men.
Sing Out Louise!
My father was Norwegian with whitish blonde hairI was the youngest child, and I never remember my father at 27 yo without pure white hair. The change I guess was so invisible he didn’t change appearance that much.
AgreeI know several white guys who choose to go bald instead of showing off their receding hairlines. It looks fine on most people.
Even if men aren’t comfortable being totally bald, I think most men who are losing their hair should keep it really short. It’s a lot more attractive than trying to cover up the fact that they are going bald. Nothing is tackier than teased-up hair or a combover on a man!
women with nicely shaped heads can look amazing with no hair or tightly cropped hairif you head isn’t nicely shaped….wear a hat.
Those crazy greased up hair don’ts I mentioned earlier, would be WAY better covered with a cap or scarf.
The White Boys song in the stage production of HAIR was my favoritethe three Black women up on a scalfold and it appears they have tightly fitted gowns like the Supremes, then the number kicks up a notch, and it is one big dress they are all in.
My hubby is bald, except for fringe on the lower area of his head he shavesBefore I met him he wore toupees, but he had fun with them in dozens of cuts and colors,(but they were good quality pieces) which he would lift anytime he felt like it. He didn’t take them seriously. Bad toupees are worse than any bald head I’ve seen.
petey, those women were a hot fuc*ing messwith that hair.
Is it just meor are gay white men more apt to do the bald thing than straight white men? I just took a short bus ride and I saw several bald white men, so I don’t think it’s as much of a stigma as they used to be. In fact, I see the bald look often when I go to Boystown here, now that I think about it.
I did noticehow the BOYS threadjacked the hair discussion!
Here’s a beautiful model with natural hair http://www.eayoyo.com/wp-conte…
I think it is more likely in gay menBecause most gay men hang around all ages of men socially, and younger guys seem much more comfortable with shaved heads than in my generation. The older gay men get more comfortable with the look. Straight guys especially older ones have those ridiculous comb-overs, or in David Gergen’s case comb-arounds. On CNN when they had election coverage panels with Gergen, and the camera would see him at different angles besides straight on I’d laugh til I nearly peed my pants at the tortured ridiculous mess he has up on his head…YIKES!
http://enthompson.unl.edu/grap…
Yawn…ENOUGH ALREADY ABOUT bLACK WOMAN AND HAIR ISSUES….bUY A WIG IF YOU WORRY SO MUCH ABOUT WHAT OTHERS SAY OR JUST GO BALD OR DO WHATEVER…
tIRED ASS ISSUE…
Good thing Don Imus isn’t a movie critic.Looks like another must-see documentary, like Anvil. I wonder if Chris Rock is going to mention anything about Pam Grier, from her natural afro in “Foxy Brown” to her pseudo-Farrah do in The L Word.
I used Nair for Men on my headonce….Then dyed my beard dark. The typical SF bear look. Even bought a leather jacket with a big Harley Davidson eagle on the back. I got cruised in the Castro, but so what. I didn’t feel authentic so I went back to my natural dishwater gray fuzzy beard and whitish hair on top.
My view on white men shaving their heads.Back when Michael Jordan’s look seemed to give every man permission to start shaving his head, I couldn’t quite cope with that look on white guys. Finally figured out why it looked wrong to me–you can still see the hair so prominently, especially when it is other than very fair. With dark skin, that’s not much of an issue. You get a nice, shiny, mono-colored orb.
But there’s thisWith black guys that do the shaved head, there’s the shaving bumps. I know more black men would probably do it if they didn’t get the shaving bumps. The only reason I started doing it myself was because a barber wouldn’t do it because “black people bump too easily” and that’s not an attractive look.
Now, I don’t bump (I can’t grow a fuc*ing goatee either) and a few of my black friends have confided in me that they are jealous that I can get away with it.
wELCOME to tHE bLEND!!!tHANK yOU SOOO mUCH For WAITING 7 MONTHS aFTER yOU rEGISTERED HERE TO mAKE YOUR FIRST POST!!111!!
I agreeThis is off topic but shaved heads resembling SS troopers straight out of Nazi Germany, the very people who murdered us and everyone else not like them. But I am a romantic that likes the flowing mane of Lord Byron and Shelly.
@GTThe title of this thread is a pretty good preview of what the discussion will entail. It appears to bore you, so just skip the thread.
yes there is the skinhead imagery to overcomeBuddha is another imagry which is the polar opposite of skinheads.
Hair has never been the criteria that I found a guy attractive,well….hair on their heads, a furry chest I always consider a nice bonus.
Now, I like that look, tooAgain, it doesn’t look right on everyone but I like it.
kev you hold her down and I’ll do the beauty make-over
Gotcha!Sounds like a plan!
Good point – hair “weeds of ignorance”In the Buddhist sutras, texts, there is a description of the body in which it is said that the hairs of the head and face have 16 obstacles for keeping clean and looking good, so they should be removed. Hair is often used a metaphor for human being’s illusion or ignorance, so it is called the ‘weeds of ignorance.’ Thus, cutting the hairs implies symbolically getting rid of ignorance. The body and the mind should be kept clean in order to reach the final aim of true understanding. Thus cutting and shaving the hair represent a sort of determination to keep the body and the mind clean and then to attain enlightenment and save all beings.
Hey!Leave my scruffy ponytail alone and don’t you DARE take my LL Bean flannel shirts away!
Aigh! They’re plucking my eyebrows!!! And I smell nail polish!!!
HALP!
Black ladies in Seattle…I think they probably just got tired of fighting the weather and worrying about ruining their hair everytime they step outside.
I keep trying for Byron…but my hair is too fine and too straight — unless I keep poking at it it goes all pageboy, even without the bangs. Sometimes I just stand facing the wind with damp hair and go for the “eccentric professor” variation.
reminds me of this VIDEO” They start with Byron and Shelly
then jump on your belly
and burst your balloons
I’m TIRED”
~Lilly Von Schtupp (Madeline Kahn)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v…
maybe you’re rightAll my makeovers end up like this
http://www.weddingfitnessphoto…
several crazy hair picsweaves for babies
http://images.quickblogcast.co…
crazy hair
http://images.quickblogcast.co…
I found these pics at this site
http://karenhalliburton.com/
isn’t that eyebrow…..singular……meow
Ha!Just ’cause I’m one day YOUNGER than Brooke Shields doesn’t mean I have the same infliction!
(and in full confession, I do pluck my OWN, thank YOU!)
My spousedoes a MUCH better job than this… maybe you should get tips from a CD!
A classicAh, she was magnificent indeed and sadly missed.
Hon, I go WAY back with drag queen friendsI know secrets of some of the finest female impersonators, who passed as women anytime they chose, to the most outrageous GENDER-F*CK, and now some drag King friends.
I also have dressed in drag a few times, a drag ball, several Halloweens. I recommend everyone cross dress at least once, it’s educational, and it also can be really fun.